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В горах Непала погиб великий японский альпинист Осаму Танабе

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Один из лучших альпинистов Японии Осаму Танабе (Osamu Tanabe) считается погибшим в горах Непала.

на фото: Танабе на Южной стене Лхотзе

Танабе с группой молодых японских восходителей поднимался по классике на Дхаулагири. Планировалось, что двое (из молодых) спустятся с вершины на лыжах. Осаму не был раньше на Дхаулагири, в случае успеха это был бы его 10-ый подъём на восьмитысячник.

28 сентября Танабе и шестеро других альпинистов вышли из базового лагеря на 4700м. К часу дня Танабе, Дайсуке Хонда, Казуаки Шимада, Тошио Ямамото и Пасанг Гели Шерпа (Tanabe, Daisuke Honda, Kazuaki Shimada, Toshio Yamamoto, Pasang Gyelu Sherpa), оставив позади двух отстающих товарищей, достигли высоты 5400м, где были сметены огромной лавиной, сошедшей с 6600м. Шимада шёл последним, ему удалось выбраться, после чего он немедленно начал поиск остальных. Подошедшие также присоединились к поискам, но определить место было сложно. Шимада никогда прежде не видел такой лавины. К спасам подключили непальские вертолёты. Ни одного тела найти не удалось. 3 октября 2010 года поиски были прекращены. Осаму Танабе родился 4 января 1961 года. Он сделал замечательные первопроходы в Непале Gyaji Kang (7,038м) и Ratna Chuli (7,035м), а также Labuche Kang (7,367м) в Тибете.

Восемь раз он поднимался на высочайшие вершины Гашербрум II в 1990, Броуд Пик в 1993, дважды на Чо Ойю в 1993 и 2001, Гашербрум I в 2002, Ксиксабангма Центральная (Xixabangma Central, Шиша Пангма) в 2003, Нанга Парбат в 2005, Ксиксабангма Основная (Xixabangma Main, Шиша Пангма) в 2006. Плюс две попытки на Канченжангу.

Кроме прочего, Осаму сходил за один сезон – что для не советских альпинистов сложно – Корженеву (7105м), ленина (7134м) и Коммунизма (7482м), три из четырёх семитысячников Союза.

В 1993 он делает первое зимнее восхождение с непальской стороны по юго-западной стене Эвереста, достигнув вершины 20 декабря, за день до того как официальный календарь объявляет начало зимнего сезона (непальский календарь считает «зиму» с 1 декабря по 15 февраля). В 1995 он совершает первопроход по необъятному и тяжёлому восточному гребню Макалу (начало с 4000м в Тибете и до вершины 8463м). Два года спустя он проходит вариант Западное ребро-Западная стена К2. С кислородом.

Одним из знаковых его восхождений становится Южная стена Лхотзе (8516м) зимой 2006. После двух попыток, предпринятых в 2004 и 2005, 27 декабря 2006 он поднимается на предвершинный гребень, но очень поздно, чтобы закончить оставшиеся 200 метров до вершины.

Последним сильным восхождением Танабе был первопроход Западного ребра Немжунг (Nemjung, 7,140м, Непал). До него на Немжунг поднимались лишь раз, в 1983 году.

Источник: Линдсэй Гриффин, ВМC




Дата публикации:

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